The Moselle wends its way between Trier and Koblenz in loops, past steep sloping vineyards, wooded hills, rugged cliffs and cosy little winemaking villages along the shores. Over the millennia, the river has etched its way through the hard rock of the Rhenish Massif, creating the meandering path of the Moselle that embodies its modern-day charm, with different landscapes being revealed after every bend.
The Moselle describes two of its loveliest loops around the little winemaking village of Bremm at the foot of the Bremmer Calmont vineyard, the steepest in the Moselle at 65°, and between Neumagen-Drohn and Schweich. There is a wonderful view of this spectacular location from the Zummethöhe on the side opposite the town of Schweich. You can stop for a break or sit down on the lovely curved bench and take your fill of the view over the vineyards and the Moselle valley.
The Romans and their wine barges
A faithful replica of the Roman barge ‘Stella Noviomagi’ (the star of Neumagen) is moored in the harbour of Neumagen-Dhron. It is based on the grave memorial to a Roman wine merchant uncovered in 1878 during excavation work on the defensive walls of the Roman Noviomagus Treverorum fortress of the late antique period. The original can be seen at the Rheinisches Landesmuseum in Trier. There is also a replica at St. Peterskapelle in Neumagen-Dhron. At 18 metres long and more than four metres wide, it can take up to 40 passengers as groups or individuals to enjoy a trip between the steep vineyards of the Moselle and feel like ancient Romans. You can even have a go at rowing.
High-speed yachts between Trier and Koblenz
At the beginning of the 19th century, when the Electorate of Trier fell to Prussia, the booming economy needed a better system of transport. It was also the dawn of the era of Moselle Romanticism. Prince of poets Johann Wolfgang Goethe sailed the Moselle in a small boat, as did painter William Turner.
Moselle shipping on replica Roman barge ‘Stella Noviomagi’, Moselle valley
But the Moselle was not yet deep enough for steamers. Then two Koblenz shipping companies had an idea to fill the gap in the market. In 1830, they opened a high-speed yacht line between Koblenz and Trier using two low-draft wooden passenger yachts, ‘Mosella’ and ‘Stadt Trier’ designed specially for the Moselle. In a time when travel was limited to walking, riding a horse or taking a mail coach, the regular transit of the high-speed yachts from Koblenz to Trier in two days and back up-river in three days was a real step forward. To keep the passengers entertained, not only was food and drink provided on board, there were also party games and recitals.
Steamers and channelisation of the Moselle
In 1839, the high-speed yachts on the Moselle routes to Trier were replaced by steamers, which significantly reduced the travel times. The high-speed yachts had laid the foundations for Moselle tourism, which now flourished in the comfortable steamers.
View of the town of Traben-Trarbach, Moselle valley
Wine was one of the most important goods transported on the Moselle. It brought untold riches to the town of Traben-Trarbach, which was the second-largest wine trading point in Europe after Bordeaux around the turn of the 20th century. The protestant enclave on the Moselle benefited from good relations with Prussia and exported wine to its neighbouring countries in Europe and further overseas.
Pleasure steamers and big shipping
Between 1958 and 1964, the Moselle was finally made navigable for big shipping, with 14 weirs built between Metz and Koblenz. This channelisation of the Moselle was a first joint project between France, Luxembourg and Germany, and had real significance in terms of European integration. Before the locks were built, only specially authorised Moselle shipping companies familiar with the many shallows and rapids of the meandering river were allowed to travel on the river.
Pleasure boat trips on the idyllic Moselle near Bernkastel-Kues, Moselle valley
Today, a trip on the Moselle is one of the most popular tourist attractions. There are fantastic views from the sun decks of the Moselle steamers as photo opportunities line up one after another: steep terraced vineyards, the Reichsburg in Cochem, the picture-perfect half-timbered houses of Beilstein, the art nouveau villas in Traben-Trarbach and the Bremmer Calmont, the steepest vineyard in Europe. The regular ships along the Moselle are particularly popular among walkers and hikers along the Moselsteig trail, who can enjoy a relaxing return trip on board with a glass of Moselle Riesling in their hands after a long day on their feet.
This makes the Moselle the perfect destination for active holidaymakers, and in summer, when the sun shimmers beautifully on the surface of the water, it is often dotted with stand-up paddleboarders, canoeists and water-skiers. Life on and along the Moselle is just lovely.
Pleasure boat on the banks of the Moselle in Bernkastel-Kues, Moselle valley
Even the sight of Norbert Klippel’s bright yellow seaplane gives you an almost child-like feeling of anticipation, and when the aircraft actually takes off from the surface of the water, the first views of the Moselle will take your breath away. There are stunning vistas of the charming river bends, the vintners hard at work in the vineyards and the tranquil villages with majestic fortified castles towering above them. Flying over the Moselle is simply wonderful!
