Traben and Trarbach lie to the east and west of the Moselle, and for a long time there was no link between them. So when the two communities wanted to forge closer relationships in the late 19th century, they needed to build a bridge. There was even a competition, and the winner was no less than Bruno Möhring, renowned art nouveau architect in the time of the empire. The specialist from Berlin came to the Moselle, designed an arched iron construction and topped it off with a bridge tower that soon became the most famous landmark in Traben-Trarbach. As befitting of a wine-making community, they rolled barrels of wine over the bridge to test its strength.
The connection, which was established in 1898, not only linked Traben to Trarbach, but also to the district of Bad Wildstein, which sits in a lush green narrow Kautenbach valley where copper and ore were once mined. A mining engineer named Timoleon Calmenet was the first to mention the warm, healing water bubbling out of one of the mining galleries more than 200 years ago. Because of the yellowish-brown colour of the water coming up to the surface in the Kautenbach, it became known as the Ockerquelle or ochre spring.
It was a real treasure that put the village on the map. In 1883, a smart bathing house opened its doors over the spring and guests from all over the region travelled to enjoy the healing powers of the water. A spa and lodging house was built to accommodate them, surrounded by spacious gardens full of indigenous and exotic flowers and plants.
The gated bridge is the trademark of Traben-Trarbach, Moselle valley
Although the bathing house is no longer in service, the Moseltherme is now open to visitors who can plunge into the warm mineral water to relieve their muscles and ease joint pain. There are also a range of relaxing saunas and an outdoor pool where guests can enjoy a view over the forests and vineyards all around, the perfect spot for a walk afterwards.
But it is not only the hot springs that have made Traben-Trarbach and its little neighbour Bad Wildstein famous. Around the turn of the twentieth century, it was the second most important wine trading centre in Europe after Bordeaux. The dealers needed plenty of storage space, so a whole labyrinth of wine cellars was created under the houses, and you can now explore them in a ‘trip down to the Traben-Trarbach underworld’.
Pure relaxation in the heated outdoor pool at Moseltherme, Moselle valley
Wine cellar in the underworld of Traben-Trarbach, Moselle valley
Above ground, visitors can discover façades decorated with grapes and other motifs around the town. The elegantly decorated houses are testimony to the affluence of the town, although one man was largely responsible for the way that Traben-Trarbach looks today. After Bruno Möhring had come to the Moselle to build the bridge, wealthy winemakers and traders commissioned him to build impressive villas for them.
You can join art nouveau tours to find out more. Some of the buildings are even open for overnight guests. One of them is the hotel ‘Bellevue’ right on the river bank, which was designed by Bruno Möhring, who was also responsible for the art nouveau interior design. The architect also designed an extension to the spa building in Bad Wildstein. The renovated complex is now home to the Hotel Parkschlösschen, a leading centre for ayurvedic spa that attracts visitors from far and wide, just as the Ockerquelle once did.
Art nouveau houses on the banks of the Moselle in Traben-Trarbach, Moselle valley
